A Letter to the Royal Academy

By Neslihan

Dear Academy,
Before you end your 50th birthday, I'd like to tell you a thing or two. You've been celebrating your glorious birthday which was filled with appreciation, inspiration and aspiration. Something like: "We've been doing well but we'd like to do better in the future." You've had Ackermann and Van Noten as your pupils and now they've all reached that point in which they could teach YOU a couple things. You're seen as this unaccessible ice queen who has shot herself in this fireproof iron tower and this reputation is most likely accurate. You're an institution, a royal household even (hence Royal Academy). You produce the fashion elite in this country and even beyond since we're 8th in the 'Top 50 Fashion Schools in the World' ranking. Do you even know what that means? It means, you, dear Academy, have gained the monopoly over fashion designing. Not bad for a country as big as Louis XIV 's backyard. (This one is total exaggeration but I'm tryina make a sketch for you *wink*) And during your birthday you've had uncountable eulogies, including an amazing retrospective looking back on your iconic history. And it is worth a retrospective, I must say. But here is the actual reason of my blogging. I've had a quite emotional conversation with this girl, who studied fashion design at KASK (your little brother in Ghent) but after a time she had had a couple of bad experiences in her private life and she had to quit studying because she was suffering from a total inspiration block. She had to put everything in order before she could start designing again. She put her aspiration on hold and decided to study Art History. This is completely theoretical and this doesn't entirely feed her aesthetics. She's constantly drowning in inspiration again but she can't live it up. Because it's too expensive, too cold and too exhausting to start all over again. And we all know how exclusive those academies are. She also told me about the amount of foreign designers in such academies and I think that's a pity. Because whe should be focussing on our own talents, who are truly waiting to be discovered. The Royal Academy and every other Fashion Academy should be a platform for young starting designers who want to add something to the fashion world. What they're suffering now is constant unappreciation and rejection. We should open our arms and educate them because they've got so much to show us. Artists who are studying to actually become one (this sounds so weird) have always encountered difficulties in terms of funding and scholarships. Let me explain. Take a history student for example, she's applying for a scholarship and she could easily get one. But when it comes to designers they have to have their own funds. Everything they invest comes from their own savings. I don't know whether we have funds here in Belgium for studying artists, there is so much ambiguity surrounding the topic. And I'd like to know more about it as I'll keep my eyes on you, dear Academy.
Happy birthday once more.

For the retrospective: http://www.momu.be/tentoonstellingen/nu_in_het_momu/
For more info: http://hbda.be/new/nl/activiteiten/antwerp-icons

PS I know how cliché this Antwerp Six picture is but it's so great.
PPS I'm sorry for the unstructured rambling.

Do it like a brother/ Trend update

By Neslihan

I feel like the dudes are being discriminated on this blog that's why I dedicate a blog post to all the fabulousness out there for the males. Becuase you've got to admit: those a/w 2012 collections are to die for! Those suits, shirts, pants, shoes make me wish I were a boy but then again I don't have to be a boy to wear men's clothing...

1 )Printed shirts (Dries Van Noten): Van Notens autumn/winter collection contained a lot of shirts with quirky prints and texts. I know how difficult it is to style a crowded print like this but there are always two ways to combine 'em. Or you go for a sober result by combining it with a pair of black/denim trousers or you go over the top and mix it with other prints. You can find shirts like these in a bunch of second hand/vintage shops.

2)Fur (Maison Martin Margiela): it's hard for a guy to wear fur and not to look like André Leon Talley but I think MMM pulled it off quite well. The beige colour neutralizes the bombastic effect fur usually causes. I wouldn't go for the furry handbag at the same time or I wouldn't go for a furry handbag at all. It reminds me of those stuffed animal rucksacks I'd used to wear to kindergarten. Realising a bit afterwards my orange juice had run out again. Sticky days recall sticky memories

PS: growing a moustache/beard seems to be the new artsy thing to do. 

3)Military (John Galliano): spotted on Van Noten's spring/summer catwalk but a little earlier in Galliano's collection: khakis, browns and camouflage prints should wake up the warrior feel. Going over the top like they did at Galliano is not necessary though, you can also go for a couple key items like a parka, boots, khaki pants or a camouflage printed shirt.

4)Pastels (Walter Van Beirendonck): faded rose, purple, yellow, those are all tones that are not easy to combine as a brother but I appreciate what Walter did. Combining pastels with pastels  is deffinitely the way to go. 

5)Layering (Ann Demeulemeester):  Ann's a/w collection was a true ode to layering. And you can interpret this quite widely. She layered with lengths, materials, prints (tie dye/ombre)... She made her men wear long knitwear and coats, which looked utterly luxurious. As if her models had escaped some dark, modern version of a 19th century novel. The boots made the totality look more dramatic.

6)Florals (Comme des Garçons): Rei is a fucking hero because not alone did she make her garçons wear skirts but also garments with enormous flower prints. Raising her middle finger once more against conformism. I know that it might be scary to wear an obvious print like this but I can tell you you'll love it. It's an instant energy boost. If you're still not ready to look like a fashionably justified rose garden, you can start off with something small. Fold your pant legs and wear flower printed little cute socks in your brogues. 

7)Knitwear (Raf Simons): don't you love to wear your cosy, oversized jumper once autumn has started? Wool, snow and hot coco make an excellent threesome. That's also what Raf thought while he was creating his a/w collection. Look at that wonderful clash: short pants combined with a mustard-coloured pull over! Also in love with the beanies in this collection.

8)Greys (Pringle of Scotland): once it starts to rain more often and the wind is omnipresent and our moods are effected by less daylight, our closet starts to get effected too. Grey is this kind of colour that never gets out of fashion. You can never be underdressed in grey. It's like black but the more sophisticated, snobby and depressing version. 

9)Velvet (Burberry Prosum): is there anything more rich than velvet? The soft feel of this royal fabric is the ultimate weapon against harsh winter temperatures. A velvet blazer is an absolute must this season. Ideal for the holidays to come.

10)The suit (YVES Saint Laurent): there are some irreplacable formalities in life and one of those formalities is the impeccable black suit. A lot has been written and said about it but Yves Saint Laurent still is the King of all suits. This one is amazing in all its simplicity but the leather collar makes it edgier in a classy way.

Check out the whole collection here. 

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