Do it like a brother/ Trend update

By Neslihan

I feel like the dudes are being discriminated on this blog that's why I dedicate a blog post to all the fabulousness out there for the males. Becuase you've got to admit: those a/w 2012 collections are to die for! Those suits, shirts, pants, shoes make me wish I were a boy but then again I don't have to be a boy to wear men's clothing...

1 )Printed shirts (Dries Van Noten): Van Notens autumn/winter collection contained a lot of shirts with quirky prints and texts. I know how difficult it is to style a crowded print like this but there are always two ways to combine 'em. Or you go for a sober result by combining it with a pair of black/denim trousers or you go over the top and mix it with other prints. You can find shirts like these in a bunch of second hand/vintage shops.

2)Fur (Maison Martin Margiela): it's hard for a guy to wear fur and not to look like André Leon Talley but I think MMM pulled it off quite well. The beige colour neutralizes the bombastic effect fur usually causes. I wouldn't go for the furry handbag at the same time or I wouldn't go for a furry handbag at all. It reminds me of those stuffed animal rucksacks I'd used to wear to kindergarten. Realising a bit afterwards my orange juice had run out again. Sticky days recall sticky memories

PS: growing a moustache/beard seems to be the new artsy thing to do. 

3)Military (John Galliano): spotted on Van Noten's spring/summer catwalk but a little earlier in Galliano's collection: khakis, browns and camouflage prints should wake up the warrior feel. Going over the top like they did at Galliano is not necessary though, you can also go for a couple key items like a parka, boots, khaki pants or a camouflage printed shirt.

4)Pastels (Walter Van Beirendonck): faded rose, purple, yellow, those are all tones that are not easy to combine as a brother but I appreciate what Walter did. Combining pastels with pastels  is deffinitely the way to go. 

5)Layering (Ann Demeulemeester):  Ann's a/w collection was a true ode to layering. And you can interpret this quite widely. She layered with lengths, materials, prints (tie dye/ombre)... She made her men wear long knitwear and coats, which looked utterly luxurious. As if her models had escaped some dark, modern version of a 19th century novel. The boots made the totality look more dramatic.

6)Florals (Comme des Garçons): Rei is a fucking hero because not alone did she make her garçons wear skirts but also garments with enormous flower prints. Raising her middle finger once more against conformism. I know that it might be scary to wear an obvious print like this but I can tell you you'll love it. It's an instant energy boost. If you're still not ready to look like a fashionably justified rose garden, you can start off with something small. Fold your pant legs and wear flower printed little cute socks in your brogues. 

7)Knitwear (Raf Simons): don't you love to wear your cosy, oversized jumper once autumn has started? Wool, snow and hot coco make an excellent threesome. That's also what Raf thought while he was creating his a/w collection. Look at that wonderful clash: short pants combined with a mustard-coloured pull over! Also in love with the beanies in this collection.

8)Greys (Pringle of Scotland): once it starts to rain more often and the wind is omnipresent and our moods are effected by less daylight, our closet starts to get effected too. Grey is this kind of colour that never gets out of fashion. You can never be underdressed in grey. It's like black but the more sophisticated, snobby and depressing version. 

9)Velvet (Burberry Prosum): is there anything more rich than velvet? The soft feel of this royal fabric is the ultimate weapon against harsh winter temperatures. A velvet blazer is an absolute must this season. Ideal for the holidays to come.

10)The suit (YVES Saint Laurent): there are some irreplacable formalities in life and one of those formalities is the impeccable black suit. A lot has been written and said about it but Yves Saint Laurent still is the King of all suits. This one is amazing in all its simplicity but the leather collar makes it edgier in a classy way.

Check out the whole collection here. 

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Grand art versus kitsch bitch

By Neslihan

"So two days ago I went to the opera" might be an unusual beginning to a blog post but it is the truth though. It wasn't on my own initiative, it was an -and I quote- "educational, obligatory and relevant activity" according to my Latin teacher. So, here's where we pause. The opera. Maybe we should take one thing into account: you're talking to pop culture teenagers, who watch superficial American teenage drama series in order to escape reality. And not some 18th century opera composed by a random, dusty-wigged German composer. Yes, I'm talking about Händel and his 'Agrippina'. And yes, I'm ignorant, a total layman when it comes to opera or classical music. The idea of sitting in this huge opera hall for FOUR hours just didn't sound that appealing (at first). Hey, take it down a notch, this is our first opera.
 Older generations (grandma/granddad/mother/father/teacher/neighbour) like to make us believe we are the result of the volatile consumer society in which durability and norms have been replaced by tendentious pleasure. Isn't that a little too negative and black and white? And isn't it normal that older generations nag about the generation following them. How will my generation be over twenty years? 
So I decided to give this opera thingy a chance because what is there to lose, right? And it seemed like opera is all about repetitive great gestures. And as I looked at Agrippina (Ann Hallenberg) and heard her impressive voice, I started to wonder: are we used to great gestures like these? Can we handle this much emotion, ambition and passion? Are we able to sit on a chair and focus on only one thing? And although it's dangerous to talk for a mass, I'm going to do it anyway. No, I don't think we are able to do so. In a world in which everything changes too fast, it is important to know a little of everything. So you know everything but only fragments of it. Specialization takes effort and effort takes time. And time still is money, often money we don't have.
So Agrippina, your ambition scared us all after a heavy day of school. We were tired and sceptical, you gave your all and were fierce in your tacky Dynasty costume because that's also something the world of Grand Arts is suffering from: modernizing classics. I never understood why they do such horrible things. Well no, of course I do understand; they want to make it more 21st century, more temporary, more 'us'. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't but either way it awakens a hell of reactions and that's when you know it's good, whether it works or not. So those tacky kitschy 80's costumes and huge hats were the right choice. And even those artificial tacky holiday backgrounds were well-found, eventhough I hated them, I must say, well done. What a wonderful clash between a classic and major tackiness.
Another succesful temporary interpretation of classics are Kehinde Wiley's modern paintings. The Afro-American artist paints African, African-American, Afro-Brazilian, Indian and Ethiopian-Jewish (Beta Israel) men in heroic poses. He mixes baroque prints with divine florals and all his paintings seem to have this intense vibe. See for yourself and maybe take a moment and ask yourself: "What if Napoleon was African?"

'Prince Tommaso

Francesco of Savoy-Carignano', 2006