Do it like a brother/ Trend update

By Neslihan

I feel like the dudes are being discriminated on this blog that's why I dedicate a blog post to all the fabulousness out there for the males. Becuase you've got to admit: those a/w 2012 collections are to die for! Those suits, shirts, pants, shoes make me wish I were a boy but then again I don't have to be a boy to wear men's clothing...

1 )Printed shirts (Dries Van Noten): Van Notens autumn/winter collection contained a lot of shirts with quirky prints and texts. I know how difficult it is to style a crowded print like this but there are always two ways to combine 'em. Or you go for a sober result by combining it with a pair of black/denim trousers or you go over the top and mix it with other prints. You can find shirts like these in a bunch of second hand/vintage shops.

2)Fur (Maison Martin Margiela): it's hard for a guy to wear fur and not to look like André Leon Talley but I think MMM pulled it off quite well. The beige colour neutralizes the bombastic effect fur usually causes. I wouldn't go for the furry handbag at the same time or I wouldn't go for a furry handbag at all. It reminds me of those stuffed animal rucksacks I'd used to wear to kindergarten. Realising a bit afterwards my orange juice had run out again. Sticky days recall sticky memories

PS: growing a moustache/beard seems to be the new artsy thing to do. 

3)Military (John Galliano): spotted on Van Noten's spring/summer catwalk but a little earlier in Galliano's collection: khakis, browns and camouflage prints should wake up the warrior feel. Going over the top like they did at Galliano is not necessary though, you can also go for a couple key items like a parka, boots, khaki pants or a camouflage printed shirt.

4)Pastels (Walter Van Beirendonck): faded rose, purple, yellow, those are all tones that are not easy to combine as a brother but I appreciate what Walter did. Combining pastels with pastels  is deffinitely the way to go. 

5)Layering (Ann Demeulemeester):  Ann's a/w collection was a true ode to layering. And you can interpret this quite widely. She layered with lengths, materials, prints (tie dye/ombre)... She made her men wear long knitwear and coats, which looked utterly luxurious. As if her models had escaped some dark, modern version of a 19th century novel. The boots made the totality look more dramatic.

6)Florals (Comme des Garçons): Rei is a fucking hero because not alone did she make her garçons wear skirts but also garments with enormous flower prints. Raising her middle finger once more against conformism. I know that it might be scary to wear an obvious print like this but I can tell you you'll love it. It's an instant energy boost. If you're still not ready to look like a fashionably justified rose garden, you can start off with something small. Fold your pant legs and wear flower printed little cute socks in your brogues. 

7)Knitwear (Raf Simons): don't you love to wear your cosy, oversized jumper once autumn has started? Wool, snow and hot coco make an excellent threesome. That's also what Raf thought while he was creating his a/w collection. Look at that wonderful clash: short pants combined with a mustard-coloured pull over! Also in love with the beanies in this collection.

8)Greys (Pringle of Scotland): once it starts to rain more often and the wind is omnipresent and our moods are effected by less daylight, our closet starts to get effected too. Grey is this kind of colour that never gets out of fashion. You can never be underdressed in grey. It's like black but the more sophisticated, snobby and depressing version. 

9)Velvet (Burberry Prosum): is there anything more rich than velvet? The soft feel of this royal fabric is the ultimate weapon against harsh winter temperatures. A velvet blazer is an absolute must this season. Ideal for the holidays to come.

10)The suit (YVES Saint Laurent): there are some irreplacable formalities in life and one of those formalities is the impeccable black suit. A lot has been written and said about it but Yves Saint Laurent still is the King of all suits. This one is amazing in all its simplicity but the leather collar makes it edgier in a classy way.

Check out the whole collection here. 

Source

Grand art versus kitsch bitch

By Neslihan

"So two days ago I went to the opera" might be an unusual beginning to a blog post but it is the truth though. It wasn't on my own initiative, it was an -and I quote- "educational, obligatory and relevant activity" according to my Latin teacher. So, here's where we pause. The opera. Maybe we should take one thing into account: you're talking to pop culture teenagers, who watch superficial American teenage drama series in order to escape reality. And not some 18th century opera composed by a random, dusty-wigged German composer. Yes, I'm talking about Händel and his 'Agrippina'. And yes, I'm ignorant, a total layman when it comes to opera or classical music. The idea of sitting in this huge opera hall for FOUR hours just didn't sound that appealing (at first). Hey, take it down a notch, this is our first opera.
 Older generations (grandma/granddad/mother/father/teacher/neighbour) like to make us believe we are the result of the volatile consumer society in which durability and norms have been replaced by tendentious pleasure. Isn't that a little too negative and black and white? And isn't it normal that older generations nag about the generation following them. How will my generation be over twenty years? 
So I decided to give this opera thingy a chance because what is there to lose, right? And it seemed like opera is all about repetitive great gestures. And as I looked at Agrippina (Ann Hallenberg) and heard her impressive voice, I started to wonder: are we used to great gestures like these? Can we handle this much emotion, ambition and passion? Are we able to sit on a chair and focus on only one thing? And although it's dangerous to talk for a mass, I'm going to do it anyway. No, I don't think we are able to do so. In a world in which everything changes too fast, it is important to know a little of everything. So you know everything but only fragments of it. Specialization takes effort and effort takes time. And time still is money, often money we don't have.
So Agrippina, your ambition scared us all after a heavy day of school. We were tired and sceptical, you gave your all and were fierce in your tacky Dynasty costume because that's also something the world of Grand Arts is suffering from: modernizing classics. I never understood why they do such horrible things. Well no, of course I do understand; they want to make it more 21st century, more temporary, more 'us'. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't but either way it awakens a hell of reactions and that's when you know it's good, whether it works or not. So those tacky kitschy 80's costumes and huge hats were the right choice. And even those artificial tacky holiday backgrounds were well-found, eventhough I hated them, I must say, well done. What a wonderful clash between a classic and major tackiness.
Another succesful temporary interpretation of classics are Kehinde Wiley's modern paintings. The Afro-American artist paints African, African-American, Afro-Brazilian, Indian and Ethiopian-Jewish (Beta Israel) men in heroic poses. He mixes baroque prints with divine florals and all his paintings seem to have this intense vibe. See for yourself and maybe take a moment and ask yourself: "What if Napoleon was African?"

'Prince Tommaso

Francesco of Savoy-Carignano', 2006

Polished sportswear

By Neslihan

Chalayan's last collection can be best described as polished sportwear. He pushed the female body into cubistic forms and gave them power by adding pointy shoulders, oversized shirts and straight lines. He played with proportion and tried to find a balance between his rectilinear designs and feminine tayloring, That's why the whole collection felt so natural and humane, even though there were lots of 'stiff' shapes. It never felt artificial. It was poetic, pure and honest instead.

While he was creating geometrical creatures in the first part of the show, the second one was all about classy tennis players. He created waists by using peplums and did some exquisite tayloring. The zippers and horizontal lines contributed to the sporty feel of this collection.

Even his night gowns were sporty due to their simple, straight lines. And since this collection was so pure in terms of colour (predominantly white/black/overexposed pastels and some popping blue and orange), Chalayan was free to use prints to spice things up. And boy, he did! He combined the prints with the clinical whites and created asymmetrical dresses. All the Chalayan keywords were present but what about the futuristic component? It was there but subtlely processed in the lady like  hats, which accompanied the sporty deux-pièces. Hence the transparent hatch in the front of the hats. In other words: it was a divine, balanced, breezy and poetic show praising sport's aesthetics and keeping it down to earth. Only like Chalayan does it.

Peplumming your way to the tennis court

Clinique chique

Sporty godesses

A neurotic splash of prints

Pictures: http://www.style.com/

It's a bad religion

By Neslihan
As I see my reflection in the window glass, I'm trying to figure out how I'll call the outfit I'm wearing today. 'Effortless cool'? Or 'lazy sloppiness'? I decide to go for the last option since a bad hairday is not very fashion. I don't really stand still or take minute to judge as I'm constantly on the move for something, anything. Judging is a way of living. And no, I'm not telling you all to beat yourselves up about the way you look. I judge so I can gradually evolve. The ancient Greeks would call it 'hybris', I call it 'self consciousness'. And I don't know whether it's karma or God trying to tell me something but I'm being punished for this fickle confidence. Not being pleased with the content of your closet is one of the worst things that can happen to a girl. Or that's what I thought until I saw Marc Jacobs' shoes during s/s 2013 RTW collection. Seriously, what the fuck is wrong with those socks in those sandals/flip flops? It sure is an amusing way to raise your middlefinger in the air to show Wintour you don't give a damn about rules and conformism but still... And that's not all, my dearest reader- as I think I only have one at the moment. Just when I thought shit couldn't get any worse, I'm losing and breaking my favourite earrings. I'd shed tears but that would be a tat over the top. Maybe it's time to pray again.

Late nights and smoldering cigarettes

So school has started and this means routines, tasks, tests and two huge projects to be ready until the end of this school year. And since I'm studying languages, both projects will be about literature. I've got a subject for Latin but English is giving me a hard time. My partner and I can't seem to decide which book to read. Lolita, To kill a mockingbird, The help, A clockwork orange, so many choices but not one that jumps out of the bunch. Maybe we should limit our choices. Anyway this post is starting to sound like one eternal nag session and that was not my intention. Writing this one to tell you I won't post that often since my keyboard is broken. (Thanks sis for spoiling water on it.) I made this random collage because I fet like it and because I liked how someone said that 'decay can be a beautiful thing'. Ain't that something to think about on this late Monday night? Let Cat Power accompany you.

https://twitter.com/anarchy_roses/

Fashionmania Anarchy of Roses

Changing the blog name has been something I've wanted to do for quite some time now. I've been looking out for blog names for a couple of months. There were a few options regarding new names but I picked this one. I guess I was inspired by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. There isn't a deeper meaning to the new name actually. I just thought it sounded cool and that's why I chose to use it. Also, it's time for something else. Fashionmania almost exists for two years (1 year/Weblog, 1 year/Blogger) so I thought it was time to turn tables.

Good Taste/Bad Taste

By Neslihan
Every season there are some remarkable trends/clothing pieces. Pieces that make you think: ew no, I will never wear this. You have to get used to the ugliness and/or oddity of those pieces. Once your eyes get used to it, you fall in love though. And only you get this love, you cannot explain. You cannot make others love it too. They won't understand. No one will but you don't care because the joy those pieces bring is worth every strange look you're given in the streets. It becomes your favourite piece and you wear it, you cherish it. You live it until the next season brings something else. It's time to let go. Some of us do and think: what was I thinking? Others don't and that item becomes a part of thier lives. It becomes a historical item. Something to pass on to the next generation.

Baggy luxurious sweaters

Absolute talk of the town are Balenciaga's excentric yet very cool sweaters. They have those strange 80's pictures and crazy laserish effects on them. Purple, pink, red: you name it, Balenciaga has it. Those chic sweaters were also spotted on Hakaan's runway but he went for a chilly metallic version. The sleeves were equally puffy. (Both fall/winter 2012 RTW)

Metallic patchwork

A little shimmer a day keeps the doctor away. I think sparkles, glitters, metallics certainly light up your outfit and even your mood. I like how a little bit of the previous can give your outfit this playful naiveté. As if you stepped right into your childhood again. And that was just what Huseyin Chalayan evoked in me. You cannot put Chalayan's dress as simply childish patchwork though because it's too sophisticated for that. Look at that finishing and the fit of the dress. See how he has used beige to keep the whole outfit in balance. It's kindergarten for grown-ups. The second dress is not from this season but it belongs to s/s 2013. This actually shows us that metallics are a keeper this year. Thank you, Hugo Boss.

Layering

While Marni kept it simple, A.F. Vandervorst went in overdrive. Marni was about taking 'colourblocking' to the next level. See how every piece totally 'stands' on its own and how it -at the same time- blends in with the other pieces. It's all about layers and neutral colours making the totality wearable. 'Wearable' is not a disgusting word. Repeat after me: WEAR-ABLE. Good girl/boy. We saw something else on the A.F. Vandervorst runway though. The Belgian couple played hide and seek with us and were inspired by Joseph Beuys. Google this man and you'll get the hats. Fashion was never this anonymous. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

Living sculptures

You can interpret this one as wide as you want. Maison Martin Margiela never disappoints me, that's one thing I can say. When haute couture was about the amazing diamond masks, ready to wear is a little less freaky. You'd almost say 'civilian' if you didn't look past the three first looks because those skirts are divine, you've got to admit. Creating a new meaning for two previous trends (peplum and asymmetrical skirts) in only one show? I'd say genius. Look at that gorgeous fish tail/peplummed skirt. Look at the rich fabric and prints. See how this image clashes with the image underneath it (read 'Viktor and Rolf'). The Dutch duo based their collection on strong women. "Oh, how original." Stop right there. They went for femme fatales and actual female warriors (the red faces say it all). Look at the coat, it looks like it's made from shiny grey, handicraft paper. The gear wheels are murderous. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

A lesson in history

Dries Van Noten had access to the archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum. He used Japanese and Chinese images and mixed them with his well-known abstract prints. This created new prints of course. And aren't amazing prints Van Notens trademark? While Dries focussed on the Eastern history, the Italian fashion duo, Dolce & Gabbana, chose the Sistine Chapel as inspiration. The embellishments combined all together were at times too much but the prints are definitely something to think about. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

No go?

H&M 39.90 EUR

Marc Jacob's pelgrim shoes (fall/winter 2013 RTW)

Christopher Kane's flat sandals (spring/summer 2012 RTW)

Backstage at Chanel (fall/winter 2013)

Pictures: Vogue Paris

Shades of blue

By Neslihan

Just a random post of some great pieces H&M has on their FB page but not on their site. I hate their site. It's ancient, boring, simplistic... It doesn't even have the half of their clothes they have in their stores. The selection I made is quite romantic and summery. And maybe that's a good thing since the heatwave has come to an end in our cosy little country (read: Belgium). So it's up to us to create an artificial summery atmosphere and what way is better than creating such an atmosphere with clothes? Yup, that's what I thought.

I wouldn't say judgemental, rather critical

By Neslihan

I collect magazines. It might not come as a surprise but I love to buy fashion related magazines. I love the idea that the whole crew has worked a whole month on it (in some cases even 'months'). I love the idea of actually waiting for something. I love discovering something new, learning something I didn't know until then. I love to look at the flawless pictures and impeccable stylings. I love to read the articles. Yes, I'm one of those people who actually READS the damn thing. So it might also not come as a surprise that I'll be reveiwing Vogue Turkey's August issue in this post.

I've waited 2-3 weeks until I finally laid my hands on the Turkish edition of one of my favourite magazines. When I think of 'Vogue' I think of different countries showing what they've got fashionwise. Every issue should be recognisable. And every issue should also introduce its own young talents to ensure tomorrow's fashion. Vogue should be a platform for unknown artists and I think that's exactly what Vogue Turkey has tried this month. A magazine that actually teaches you something, that really is refreshing. 

My favourite article was actually the one about Oscar Wilde. It says that he has been a fashion editor for 2 years! I was so surprised when I read that because Mister Wilde isn't just an ordinary author. He was one of the leading literaries during the 20th century. He's the man behind the many poems but most important the man behind the horrifying 'The Picture Of Dorian Gray'. So why did Oscar become a god damn fashion editor? He simply needed the money and liked social events that came with the whole thing. He even changed the name of the magazine. He hated the 'lady' word so he changed the original Lady's World into Women's World. 

"When Oscar Wilde went to work at a women's fashion magazine to earn some money, all his friends made fun of him. They said he wasn't manly and professional enough and that he didn't have morals."

Even though I liked the photoshoots ( 'Yol Arkadasi Nur Fattahoglu' and 'Isiga Dogru') and articles, certainly those about newly discovered Turkish designers, there were also some things I didn't like.I thought the cover was tacky. What is wrong with that cleavage? Don't get me wrong; Miranda Kerr is a beautiful woman but I've never really thought of her as a high fashion model. Victoria's Secret isn't fashion, sure it's entertaining but it is not fashion. Miranda might work on that catwalk but she doesn't in Vogue. She has a strong and very expressive look and that doesn't quite work in huge fashion shoots. A model to me is a canvas, someone who can be everything/ everyone. Sometimes all at once. Miranda is sexy. And beautiful. Full stop.
 Another thing I didn't like was the fact that they had taken several photoshoots of the American Vogue. Sure it happens all the time but it is annoying. The whole Emma Stone shoot of July was also in this month's Vogue Turkey. Rather repetitive.

I adore the colours and textures of this shoot. The effects they've used are also amazing. They've tried to mix western silhouettes with oriental details and the totality looked modern and really bohemian.

More on: http://vogue.com.tr/
Source: Vogue Tr. August 2012