Grand art versus kitsch bitch

By Neslihan

"So two days ago I went to the opera" might be an unusual beginning to a blog post but it is the truth though. It wasn't on my own initiative, it was an -and I quote- "educational, obligatory and relevant activity" according to my Latin teacher. So, here's where we pause. The opera. Maybe we should take one thing into account: you're talking to pop culture teenagers, who watch superficial American teenage drama series in order to escape reality. And not some 18th century opera composed by a random, dusty-wigged German composer. Yes, I'm talking about Händel and his 'Agrippina'. And yes, I'm ignorant, a total layman when it comes to opera or classical music. The idea of sitting in this huge opera hall for FOUR hours just didn't sound that appealing (at first). Hey, take it down a notch, this is our first opera.
 Older generations (grandma/granddad/mother/father/teacher/neighbour) like to make us believe we are the result of the volatile consumer society in which durability and norms have been replaced by tendentious pleasure. Isn't that a little too negative and black and white? And isn't it normal that older generations nag about the generation following them. How will my generation be over twenty years? 
So I decided to give this opera thingy a chance because what is there to lose, right? And it seemed like opera is all about repetitive great gestures. And as I looked at Agrippina (Ann Hallenberg) and heard her impressive voice, I started to wonder: are we used to great gestures like these? Can we handle this much emotion, ambition and passion? Are we able to sit on a chair and focus on only one thing? And although it's dangerous to talk for a mass, I'm going to do it anyway. No, I don't think we are able to do so. In a world in which everything changes too fast, it is important to know a little of everything. So you know everything but only fragments of it. Specialization takes effort and effort takes time. And time still is money, often money we don't have.
So Agrippina, your ambition scared us all after a heavy day of school. We were tired and sceptical, you gave your all and were fierce in your tacky Dynasty costume because that's also something the world of Grand Arts is suffering from: modernizing classics. I never understood why they do such horrible things. Well no, of course I do understand; they want to make it more 21st century, more temporary, more 'us'. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't but either way it awakens a hell of reactions and that's when you know it's good, whether it works or not. So those tacky kitschy 80's costumes and huge hats were the right choice. And even those artificial tacky holiday backgrounds were well-found, eventhough I hated them, I must say, well done. What a wonderful clash between a classic and major tackiness.
Another succesful temporary interpretation of classics are Kehinde Wiley's modern paintings. The Afro-American artist paints African, African-American, Afro-Brazilian, Indian and Ethiopian-Jewish (Beta Israel) men in heroic poses. He mixes baroque prints with divine florals and all his paintings seem to have this intense vibe. See for yourself and maybe take a moment and ask yourself: "What if Napoleon was African?"

'Prince Tommaso

Francesco of Savoy-Carignano', 2006

Et Gaultier créa la femme/ Looking back

By Neslihan
A while ago I blogged about this exhibition (not on this blog) called 'Devout/Divine: Fashion vs. Religion' in Modemuseum Hasselt. And I've still not gotten over the fact that I haven't visited this expo. *Sad face* It was the ultimate chance to see what the impact of religion is/was on fashion. Crucifixes, headscarves, mysterious traditional clothing belonging to central African tribes: it was all there to see and 'secretly' touch. Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries van Noten, you name it, they had it. It still hurts to write this down.
Since the internet is a place with a billion hidden treasures and since I'm quite anachronistic when it comes to fashion I decided to take a look at Jean Paul Gaultier's 2007 spring/summer couture show. I know as a blogger you're supposed to be innovating and you shouldn't look back. It's all about being on track and being the first who shares the news but screw that.
I can imagine the amount of stress fashion people (primarily designers) are experiencing when designing-sometimes- up to FOUR collections in a year. Bashing themselves to please Anna W. or Emanuelle A., don't get me wrong I'm not trying to denigrate the industry because I respect the artist, who works in this industry.
Doesn't it sound totally contradictional to use 'artist' and 'industry' in the same sentence? So many feelings, so many mixed feelings when I'm talking about (the) fashion(industry). It always comes down to this: it's not the materialistic value of fashion that I'm interested in but the emotional part intrigues me. And that's why I've chosen to blog about the 2007 collection of Gaultier, the one and only French enfant terrible of fashion with the biggest 'I don't give a f*ck' attitude. Sit back and enjoy monsieur Gaultier's religious delights.

Defending Raf

By Neslihan

I felt like defending Raf Simons for his first Dior collection because I've read so many negative comments on the internet. I think it's injustice towards Raf's talent and simply unrespectful towards his art. So that's why I'm focusing on a couple of those reactions in this blog post:

"Raf's collection for Dior was a copy of his last collection for Jil Sander."
This is just bullocks. Okay, this collection had that strong, refined, minimalistic Raf stamp but that's what it was supposed to be. That's why they hired the man. You've got to integrate your own vision while respecting the authenticity of the brand. Dior isn't just a brand it's a history lesson in fashion. It's a hard thing to stick to your own style but also respect what Dior originally stands for: femininity, craftmanship and class. Femininity isn't so much about cleavage, glitters or extravagance. Raf stresses on the polished side of being a woman with his sleek cuts. It basically comes down to this: when Raf left Jil Sander, he did take his vision with him. So, the next time you whine about Raf being too simplistic or minimalistic, take a second and maybe think that that's what it actually has to be.

"This Dior show wasn't couture. It looked like ready to wear!"
Can we please get over the fact that couture is only about gaudy luxury? The luxury of Raf's designs for Dior lies in Raf's impeccable sense for tailoring. Have you seen the modern version of Mister Dior's bar jacket? It was the most perfect taloring ever!  And what about the cut out dresses used as tops? I mean the embellishment was breathtaking. The voluminous dresses were another tribute to Christian Dior's style. This collection was actually something like back to basics. Back to what Dior stood for. The poppy colours and elegant pantsuits proved that. Couture isn't so much about showy, crazy extravagance but ir's about smooth fits and amazing details. Or that's Raf's motto.

"We want John Galliano back."
I'm sure we all have to get used to Raf's vision but give the man at least a chance before you start to judge. You can't compare Simons to Galliano. That is just impossible. Galliano is all about theatrical, eccentric, romantic, 20's glamour while Raf is the embodiment of less is more. He's romantic but in his own way (hence  his last Jil Sander collection). You can't expect him to be a Galliano rip off. That would be boring as well. This collection shows us that a new era has begun because Raf ends the Galliano episode and makes the industry ready for poetic minimalism. And I can't wait until the next collection!

Luckily Raf received also lots of good comments. He invited a lot of fellow designers like Alber Elbaz, Pierre Cardin and Marc jacobs but also celebs like Marion Cotillard and Sharon Stone. Even Charlene from Monaco was there. Isn't that the most amazing guest list? The Belgian and Dutch readers can read some of the reactions here. As for my other beloved readers, I've translated a couple thoughts. Scroll down to read them.

Talking 'bout Marx and Fashion

By Neslihan

It has been calm around here. As many of you might already know: june is exam month. A month during which we, students, imprison ourselves to be drowned in the pool of interesting/useless knowledge. We battle against sleepless nights, constant stress, headaches, suicidal thoughts etc. Okay, I admit, the last one was a tat exaggerated but what's life without a bit of drama and bullshit? I have been looking forward to the end of this exam period since day ONE. And if you haven't, well, then you're not human and we have nothing in common. BYE.
Today however was my final exam: an oral exam of History. As much as I love history, I was most definitely not looking forward to learn Marx' theories about alienation of the worker or the surplus value by heart. Don't get me wrong, Marx fascinates me. I just love how revolutionairy his ideas were for his time. And how he, one of the very few, raised his voice against the firm social structures. How he was able to formulate the problems in a very clear way. Those were the times during which people tried to get the esence of life.
I know how contadictional it is to write about Marx and about being an anti-capitalist (which I do not claim to be) when you're blogging constantly about the shoes you want to have or the dresses you want to wear but one is more than a blogger only. And you shouldn't take blogging too seriously. Everyone has a different vision on blogging. Well, this is mine.
I don't believe that fashion can save the world. I'm too rational for that. I do believe that fashion can make the hard walk prettier. I totally get how cliché this sounds but that's the way it is. There are more important things in life than only fashion. Fashion is a big part of my life, yes but it isn't everything. It's the thing I turn to when things get too heavy. It's a guidance through political changes. Or it's a medium to express your political disagreance. Either way I always contradict myself when it comes to fashion. I just want to say that fashion to me, is not just another random fact that is stricktly about beauty.
After this 'short' commentation on Marx et la mode I'd like to say I'm back in case you haven't noticed. I've got truckloads of subjects to blog about and seas of time to this. I'm not going to impose myself to do things during the weeks to come but my head is exploding with potential blogging subjects.

Workers of the world unite; you have nothing to lose but your chains.

-Karl Marx 

Sleepless nights

By Neslihan
So, I'm heading a sleepless night and have all those questions in my head. Some people lose a sense of reality and start to live through their fantasies. They only dream and are afraid of the truth. They hide instead. They hide of the those who might be better or stronger than them. They wish but aren't strong enough to fulfil their own wishes. Too tired of disappointments, too tired of competition, too tired of abandonment. Too tired of everything. And I can see this as I'm still one of those optimistic teenagers. I'm not one of those youngsters who thinks she can change the world. Maybe I'm a tat too realistic for that but that doesn't mean I'm pessimistic about the future or my abilities. It's just that being a 24/7 idealist isn't realistic. And sometimes I wished that I didn't have to work for some things, that they'd just fall into my lap, you know. That I'd wake up one day and realise that I'm travelling for a living. That I'm discovering all those amazing cultures and having the most interesting talks with the locals. That I'm having lunch with Karl Lagerfeld or Frida Kahlo. And that I'm married to Joseph Gordon Levitt or Penn Badgley. You know stuff like that. Dreaming is for free and it's easy. People should do that once in awhile. It makes you happy too. Unless you're dreaming all the time and have lost touch with reality. You can't be in that decadent stage of laziness. You have to get out of your coach and undertake some action because I can't see myself sitting in front of my computer for the rest of my days. I'm not sure what I'm doing right now. Maybe this is a monologue intérieur or some kind of peptalk to myself. I don't know really. I think too much, which isn't a bad thing.

This song is one of the best things that happened to me. Lana Del Rey really is a magician. The lyrics are pure literature. How she discribes reality kind of makes your body float to some higher universe.

Pictures belong to ID's Spring 2012 idssue.

Photoshoot: "Being a princess ain't all it's  cracked up to be"

Model: Marte Mei van Haaster

In love with Jil Sander's paisley prints (second picture) and the Nike trainers. The colour is so sweet! Loved this photoshoot because it has that sporty feel to it. It's still so sensual and edgy. One of my favourite photoshoots of this issue. It's also the first issue I've ever bought.

Grown-ups play too

By Neslihan

Of course they do, dear. Every year famous cosmopolitans play dress-up during the most-promising fashion game in the intire world: MET Costume Institute Gala. It's about actresses, singers, fashion designers,  editors, socialites hiring the best stylist, getting the most breathtaking dress and wearing the craziest accessories. This year though there was a variety of prints, lengths and colours. Elmo's feathers were in sale, some singers splintered disco balls to apply the shiny pieces to their dresses, actresses got promotion on their fabric ( buy 1 metre, get 5 metre free) and some others truly were trying too hard to show us some leg. Luckily though there were also A-listers who showed that they were worth their invitation. Let's take a look.

Mellow Yellow

January- Mad Men- Jones looked perfect in her Versace dress. The hair, the accessories everthing was in balance. She looked like a mermaid with super powers.

Coco Rocha went for a vintage Givenchy suit. It's not a normal suit though because this trouser suit belonged to Elizabeth Taylor. Pairing the yellow up with pinks was definitely the right decision. Look at that fabulous hair! And her dusty pink shoes are just to kill for.

All that glitter is not gold

I don't remember one signle day on which I thought: Ieks, Camilla Belle looks ridiculous. She always pulls off the most amazing combinations and doesn't even have a sylist. Here she's wearing a royal Ralph Lauren dress that really is made for her body. Going for a dress like this requires the right accessories and Camilla knew where to stop. Thumbs up!

When I saw Carey Mulligan I immediately thought Paco Rabanne! But I've mistaken because this crazy dress is nothing less than Prada. Wearing glitters or shiny dresses is not easy but how she's managed to keep it classy!

Hated by some, praised by others, Lana Del Rey knows how to be noticed. Her music fills you with sweet melancholy and her style just turns you green of jealousy. During this gala Del Rey looked like the dark version of Little Red Riding Hood. Bet she and Camilla have shared their lipstick. Lana's wearing Altuzarra.

Chloe Sevigny's mirror dress looked amazing! This Miu Miu dress though can't be worn by everyone. You've got to have the attitude, the guts and the body to wear it.

RED Carpet

While some were showing some skin, others hid every square of leg or arm. Kirsten Dunst's choice for a skirt suit was interesting. She looked as if she had escaped a German 40's movie. Kirsten looked great in her Rodarte suit.

I don't really know Mia Wasikowska's personal style but she looks like a shy girl. So, spotting her in this Prada dress wasn't a surprise but that doesn't mean that I don't like it.

Emma Stone's known for her bubbly personality and this dress was a great way to frame her quirkiness. She wore Lanvin.

Shaded pastels

 Dakota is a fantastic actress but what's up with the dress? Sure, Marc Jacobs is brilliant and sure, Louis Vuitton is off the hook but what the hell is up with this dress? Dakota Fanning could've worn something more outstanding or spicy because she's doomed to be forgotten between the other stunning ladies. 

Sarah Jessica Parker has played Carrie bradshaw for 6 whole seasons and you'd think she has learned something about fashion but she has truly let me down this time. I love florals and Valentino but a floor length ode to spring was maybe a lill' too much, don't you think?

Anja Rubik litterally looked shaded. I know this blog post starts to look like some style page from a gossip magazine but I cannot help it. That hip bone is scary and -surprise surprise- she looks anorexic. This dress is by the Belgian Anthony Vaccarello.

Back to black

The Olsen twins are known for their impeccable style. They try everything and aren't afraid of failing but this time I had the impression that Mary kate Olsen wanted to look like some kind of nun. And picking Einstein as inspiration for your hairdo is not ok.

Giovanna Battaglia from L'Uomo Vogue Italia and Carine Roitfeld's son (former editor-in-chief Vogue Paris), Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld attended this gala too. They looked so chic together. She wore D&G and looked like Russian royalty and he like a Parisian gentleman,.

Rosie Huntington Whiteley would look great as the next Bond girl. She shone like an Oscar award in her Burberry dress.

Praise the Lord, Marc Jacobs was the edgy note to this party. How awesome can one be?

Images: vogue.com.tr

Creative-Director, noun, countable, business

By Neslihan

Creative director. It's a funny word. One simply cannot be creative and a director. As a director you've got responsibilities and those might limit your imagination, creativity. You start to worry about the financial part of the job and that might cause a lot of headache. I don't really know how it goes in the fashion buz but why not protecting them from those financial bollocks? In that way the artist will be able to focus on the stricktly artistical part. And he'll let his creativity lead him to the edges of his imagination. Using 100 % of his ideas because that's the only limit there should be. In some kind of way though designers have to hold in and pull back because they have to take wearability and saleability into account. They start with dreams and big plans and eventually end up with huge loans they cannot pay any longer. That's also what has happened with Christian Lacroix and with the Belgian Christophe Coppens, noted accessory maker. And the list will get longer in the future since recession is making us all critical on what to buy.

Another thing that bothers me is the speed with which fashion designers are getting sacked because they simply cannot live up to the marketing standards. You don't sell? Well, you don't design any longer. It's sickening to see amazing artists getting replaced just like that. Forgotten in the silence of eternity. I sometimes hate our economic atmosphere in which everything depends on profit. When you notice that the economical part jumps in front of the artistic one, you should know that there's where you stop. Because artists are the ultimate anarchists, they don't do the expected. They should only follow their heart or am I living in a utopia created by my ignorancy?

Tommy helps the poor

By Neslihan
I've always believed in being yourself. It's important to stay true to who you are. Certainly when you own a blog. It's about stating your opinion but also leaving some space for other point of views. So, when I stumbled into Tommy Hilfiger adds for their Millennium Promise Collection I was highly skeptical. This collection is inspired by African prints and the full profit of it goes to the 'Millennium Villages Project' in Africa. When charity oriented organizations state things like this I always get critical and wonder which share of it truly goes to that good cause. Because we donate our money in order to help people in need not knowing what happens with it. In lots of cases a small part really goes to that cause because those organizations have employees and shipping costs. So, what really is left is only a fraction of the totality of this huge sum. And of course it's logical that they too have their own costs but this whole charity thing is one big, black blur to me.

So, you can probably guess my thoughts on this collection. I think it's wonderful that lots of fashion companies care about global problems like those concerning our environment but also poverty. These companies already have a public and fame so it's easier to reach people. Still I felt something wasn't right. I surfed a bit on the web and found out that every single penny of income would go to MVP. I was amazed, I mean do people (read mega brands) like that exist? Or am I just too pesimistic to think that wealthy companies really are willing to help the less lucky in our world? Or are organizations like this one too idealistic? What's wrong with that? As long as they're realistic, everything's still ok, right? And you have to start somewhere. You can't have it all at once. It's about work, hard work.

But let's take a look at the clothing. I've never been quite fond of Tommy Hilfiger. It's really preppy, totally not my style either. The soft pinks, greens and blues are so in contradiction with my own taste. This collection though is nice. I mean, I wouldn't wear the whole collection but there are three pieces I'd definitely wear: the two tees and the last shorts. And ok, I'd give the dress a shot but that's about it. You either like their charity collection or don't.

And I know, me sitting here, writing about it in my comfortable chair, doesn't exactly make me a hero. But I'm always way too skeptical to donate money to organizations but -this is going to sound extremely stupid, I know- I do buy clothing from Anti-Aids collections like those from H&M's. I don't do it because I want to support the organization to be honest, I just like the clothes. So, the risk with collections is that people often forget or do not know what the concept is. As for myself I still have to find a way to be involved and more conscious about Third World problems. The clock keeps ticking.

 More info at http://be.tommy.com/hilfiger/millennium-promise,nl_BE,pg.html.