Before buying any september issue; read this blogpost

By Neslihan
'September', that glorious month during which everything revolutionarily changes in 'the industry'. September in fashion world is like january amongst muggles. It's the time in a year during which you can start with a fresh conscience and it seems as if everything is possible. It's time to create new dreams and fantasies over which we bloggers, teenage girls and other well-dressed weirdoes obsess knowing we'll never own a Valentino dress or a pair of Chanel pumps. And 'the industry' feeds that fantasy. 'The industry' containing designers, PR, editors and their holy magazines --------> THE SEPTEMBER ISSUES. It's the kind of issue every fashion geek is waiting for after she has dumped her last sheer summer dress. She/he is delighted by the raw materials, big silhouettes and modest colours designers are showing her/him. And editors hype it like it's hot. Collection reviews, interviews, shoots, trend specials and a shit load of advertorials. All in all a heavy bible containig what's hot and what's not during the cold winter days. Since I'm a loyal buyer of those issues I thought it might be time to reveal 'the truth' behind the so-called 'September issue'.

DISCLAIMER: I am not actually revealing anything. So please skip if you were waiting for some groundbreaking, mind-shaking facts.

The first item that keeps on coming back in every editorial and/or trend special since Raf Simons' last collection for Jil Sander  is the statement coat. It's the kind of coat that will keep you warm during the harsh winter temperatures while adding a tat 'je ne sais quoi'. It's nonchalant yet classy but above all; it must be in cotton candy colours. And Elle Holland (SEPTEMBER ISSUE 2013, what did you expect?) shows us how varsatile it is. They style it in three different ways, showing you can be sweet or rather spicy in soft baby pinks. Don't be afraid and try to mix this piece with edgy prints, dusty browns and even with velvet. That's how -and I hate to use the word because it truly lacks glamour- functional this coat is. 

Those two models belong to the Carven RTW FW collection.

What I truly like about winter fashion is less colours and more greys, blacks and browns but that's not what this Hermès slash Alexander Wang collage is about. This one contains two and even three 'old' (read: past season) trends. The first trend is A-line skirting, the more volume underneath, the better. And the materials just don't matter: pleats, leather, velvet, silk. Movement is important though! Another thing that caught my eye in those two looks is the layering. I'm not talking about the blizzard kind of layering but about combining different items with each other while they first seem pretty unconventional. A classy skirt for example is an excellent match with a sporty sweater and trainers. Dress it up with heels at night and you got yourself a varsatile (yes, I'm going to over-use that one in this post) outfit.

 Another Item that keeps on re-appearing in every trend special is the biker jacket. It is edgy, boyish and very punky. It might look unflattering on first sight but you have to wear sheer and floaty fabrics underneath to create that feminine silhouette. Junya Watanabe (on the left) styles it with spicy red butcher pants and messy cake hair, while they create mystery at Givenchy (on the right) by pairing it up with black tones. Either way it looks sexy as hell and it is a timeless piece, you gotta trust me on that one.

You know the drill since the sixties. "WE ARE WOMEN. WE CAN WEAR PANTSUITS WHENEVER WE WANT AND WHEREVER WE WANT TO." But I guess we have past that stage so we have to keep on searching for our male side. In 2013 we do this by wearing oversized coats, pants and jumpers and if possible: all together. Stella McCartney (on the left) keeps it neutral by matching the royal coat with a pair of slim leg trousers in the same colour. That's how you keep the silhouette subtle, yet very powerful. Haider Ackermann chooses a more artsy aproach by pairing up the amazing blazer with flares.

Miranda Priestly would probably not agree on this one but florals are a classic. The season is irrelevant and they have my undying love. It's the only print that creates this instant summer vibe. And excess is the only answer for this one. Combine it with other florals or graphic prints, it creates this unseen dimension. It's an utterly girly print though so how do you keep it grown-up? Simple, you get your own bombastic floral coat and you style it up with a printed pair of trousers and a pair of classy brogues (Dries Van Noten on the left). You're good to go. For the Lolita vibe: enter Erdem FW RTW 2013-2014 (on the right)

'NEW' TRENDS new-new-new-new-new-new-new

There actually are new trends on the catwalks and therefore also in magazines. Grunge is that big thing this season. I've read countless articles about the 'REVIVAL OF GRUNGE' and 'GRUNGE IS NOT DEAD' and 'OMGEE KURT COMBAIN IS A STYLE ICON'. They're overdoing it (as usual) and they'll forget about it asap. But at this moment the next cool thing is grunge: that means florals and tartans mixed all together and ripped stockings with biker boots. Very predictable and teenagy but hey, a trend slut like you embraces everything.

Givenchy on the left and Yves Saint Laurent on the right. Eventhough I think this is too ordinary and too high street to be Saint Laurent.It captures the idea though.

This one is personally my favourite. It's unerwear meets pajamas. Soft silks and lacy bras that caress your skin during dark winter days. That's how being a woman feels like but this trend is more than that. It's about showing what you got underneath by wearing your sexy bra as top, which is quite scary because the amount of nudity is huge. So this trend is only for the Rachel Zoes and Nicole Richies amongst us. The picture on the left though shows us something completely different. It's about wearing your pajamas outdours and creating this relaxed vibe. It looks elegant yet laid back. Even though this looks as a simple concept, it asks for a shit load of guts to pull this one off because you don't wanna look like Bridget Jones.

Both looks are from the Louis Vuitton FW RTW 2013-2014 collection.

PS I'M NOT SORRY FOR THE AMOUNT OF LINKS IN THIS BLOGPOST

PPS I KNOW YOU HAVEN'T READ THE FULL ARTICLE WHICH IS A SHAME ON YOU

Good Taste/Bad Taste

By Neslihan
Every season there are some remarkable trends/clothing pieces. Pieces that make you think: ew no, I will never wear this. You have to get used to the ugliness and/or oddity of those pieces. Once your eyes get used to it, you fall in love though. And only you get this love, you cannot explain. You cannot make others love it too. They won't understand. No one will but you don't care because the joy those pieces bring is worth every strange look you're given in the streets. It becomes your favourite piece and you wear it, you cherish it. You live it until the next season brings something else. It's time to let go. Some of us do and think: what was I thinking? Others don't and that item becomes a part of thier lives. It becomes a historical item. Something to pass on to the next generation.

Baggy luxurious sweaters

Absolute talk of the town are Balenciaga's excentric yet very cool sweaters. They have those strange 80's pictures and crazy laserish effects on them. Purple, pink, red: you name it, Balenciaga has it. Those chic sweaters were also spotted on Hakaan's runway but he went for a chilly metallic version. The sleeves were equally puffy. (Both fall/winter 2012 RTW)

Metallic patchwork

A little shimmer a day keeps the doctor away. I think sparkles, glitters, metallics certainly light up your outfit and even your mood. I like how a little bit of the previous can give your outfit this playful naiveté. As if you stepped right into your childhood again. And that was just what Huseyin Chalayan evoked in me. You cannot put Chalayan's dress as simply childish patchwork though because it's too sophisticated for that. Look at that finishing and the fit of the dress. See how he has used beige to keep the whole outfit in balance. It's kindergarten for grown-ups. The second dress is not from this season but it belongs to s/s 2013. This actually shows us that metallics are a keeper this year. Thank you, Hugo Boss.

Layering

While Marni kept it simple, A.F. Vandervorst went in overdrive. Marni was about taking 'colourblocking' to the next level. See how every piece totally 'stands' on its own and how it -at the same time- blends in with the other pieces. It's all about layers and neutral colours making the totality wearable. 'Wearable' is not a disgusting word. Repeat after me: WEAR-ABLE. Good girl/boy. We saw something else on the A.F. Vandervorst runway though. The Belgian couple played hide and seek with us and were inspired by Joseph Beuys. Google this man and you'll get the hats. Fashion was never this anonymous. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

Living sculptures

You can interpret this one as wide as you want. Maison Martin Margiela never disappoints me, that's one thing I can say. When haute couture was about the amazing diamond masks, ready to wear is a little less freaky. You'd almost say 'civilian' if you didn't look past the three first looks because those skirts are divine, you've got to admit. Creating a new meaning for two previous trends (peplum and asymmetrical skirts) in only one show? I'd say genius. Look at that gorgeous fish tail/peplummed skirt. Look at the rich fabric and prints. See how this image clashes with the image underneath it (read 'Viktor and Rolf'). The Dutch duo based their collection on strong women. "Oh, how original." Stop right there. They went for femme fatales and actual female warriors (the red faces say it all). Look at the coat, it looks like it's made from shiny grey, handicraft paper. The gear wheels are murderous. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

A lesson in history

Dries Van Noten had access to the archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum. He used Japanese and Chinese images and mixed them with his well-known abstract prints. This created new prints of course. And aren't amazing prints Van Notens trademark? While Dries focussed on the Eastern history, the Italian fashion duo, Dolce & Gabbana, chose the Sistine Chapel as inspiration. The embellishments combined all together were at times too much but the prints are definitely something to think about. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

No go?

H&M 39.90 EUR

Marc Jacob's pelgrim shoes (fall/winter 2013 RTW)

Christopher Kane's flat sandals (spring/summer 2012 RTW)

Backstage at Chanel (fall/winter 2013)

Pictures: Vogue Paris