Polished sportswear

By Neslihan

Chalayan's last collection can be best described as polished sportwear. He pushed the female body into cubistic forms and gave them power by adding pointy shoulders, oversized shirts and straight lines. He played with proportion and tried to find a balance between his rectilinear designs and feminine tayloring, That's why the whole collection felt so natural and humane, even though there were lots of 'stiff' shapes. It never felt artificial. It was poetic, pure and honest instead.

While he was creating geometrical creatures in the first part of the show, the second one was all about classy tennis players. He created waists by using peplums and did some exquisite tayloring. The zippers and horizontal lines contributed to the sporty feel of this collection.

Even his night gowns were sporty due to their simple, straight lines. And since this collection was so pure in terms of colour (predominantly white/black/overexposed pastels and some popping blue and orange), Chalayan was free to use prints to spice things up. And boy, he did! He combined the prints with the clinical whites and created asymmetrical dresses. All the Chalayan keywords were present but what about the futuristic component? It was there but subtlely processed in the lady like  hats, which accompanied the sporty deux-pièces. Hence the transparent hatch in the front of the hats. In other words: it was a divine, balanced, breezy and poetic show praising sport's aesthetics and keeping it down to earth. Only like Chalayan does it.

Peplumming your way to the tennis court

Clinique chique

Sporty godesses

A neurotic splash of prints

Pictures: http://www.style.com/

It's a bad religion

By Neslihan
As I see my reflection in the window glass, I'm trying to figure out how I'll call the outfit I'm wearing today. 'Effortless cool'? Or 'lazy sloppiness'? I decide to go for the last option since a bad hairday is not very fashion. I don't really stand still or take minute to judge as I'm constantly on the move for something, anything. Judging is a way of living. And no, I'm not telling you all to beat yourselves up about the way you look. I judge so I can gradually evolve. The ancient Greeks would call it 'hybris', I call it 'self consciousness'. And I don't know whether it's karma or God trying to tell me something but I'm being punished for this fickle confidence. Not being pleased with the content of your closet is one of the worst things that can happen to a girl. Or that's what I thought until I saw Marc Jacobs' shoes during s/s 2013 RTW collection. Seriously, what the fuck is wrong with those socks in those sandals/flip flops? It sure is an amusing way to raise your middlefinger in the air to show Wintour you don't give a damn about rules and conformism but still... And that's not all, my dearest reader- as I think I only have one at the moment. Just when I thought shit couldn't get any worse, I'm losing and breaking my favourite earrings. I'd shed tears but that would be a tat over the top. Maybe it's time to pray again.

Good Taste/Bad Taste

By Neslihan
Every season there are some remarkable trends/clothing pieces. Pieces that make you think: ew no, I will never wear this. You have to get used to the ugliness and/or oddity of those pieces. Once your eyes get used to it, you fall in love though. And only you get this love, you cannot explain. You cannot make others love it too. They won't understand. No one will but you don't care because the joy those pieces bring is worth every strange look you're given in the streets. It becomes your favourite piece and you wear it, you cherish it. You live it until the next season brings something else. It's time to let go. Some of us do and think: what was I thinking? Others don't and that item becomes a part of thier lives. It becomes a historical item. Something to pass on to the next generation.

Baggy luxurious sweaters

Absolute talk of the town are Balenciaga's excentric yet very cool sweaters. They have those strange 80's pictures and crazy laserish effects on them. Purple, pink, red: you name it, Balenciaga has it. Those chic sweaters were also spotted on Hakaan's runway but he went for a chilly metallic version. The sleeves were equally puffy. (Both fall/winter 2012 RTW)

Metallic patchwork

A little shimmer a day keeps the doctor away. I think sparkles, glitters, metallics certainly light up your outfit and even your mood. I like how a little bit of the previous can give your outfit this playful naiveté. As if you stepped right into your childhood again. And that was just what Huseyin Chalayan evoked in me. You cannot put Chalayan's dress as simply childish patchwork though because it's too sophisticated for that. Look at that finishing and the fit of the dress. See how he has used beige to keep the whole outfit in balance. It's kindergarten for grown-ups. The second dress is not from this season but it belongs to s/s 2013. This actually shows us that metallics are a keeper this year. Thank you, Hugo Boss.

Layering

While Marni kept it simple, A.F. Vandervorst went in overdrive. Marni was about taking 'colourblocking' to the next level. See how every piece totally 'stands' on its own and how it -at the same time- blends in with the other pieces. It's all about layers and neutral colours making the totality wearable. 'Wearable' is not a disgusting word. Repeat after me: WEAR-ABLE. Good girl/boy. We saw something else on the A.F. Vandervorst runway though. The Belgian couple played hide and seek with us and were inspired by Joseph Beuys. Google this man and you'll get the hats. Fashion was never this anonymous. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

Living sculptures

You can interpret this one as wide as you want. Maison Martin Margiela never disappoints me, that's one thing I can say. When haute couture was about the amazing diamond masks, ready to wear is a little less freaky. You'd almost say 'civilian' if you didn't look past the three first looks because those skirts are divine, you've got to admit. Creating a new meaning for two previous trends (peplum and asymmetrical skirts) in only one show? I'd say genius. Look at that gorgeous fish tail/peplummed skirt. Look at the rich fabric and prints. See how this image clashes with the image underneath it (read 'Viktor and Rolf'). The Dutch duo based their collection on strong women. "Oh, how original." Stop right there. They went for femme fatales and actual female warriors (the red faces say it all). Look at the coat, it looks like it's made from shiny grey, handicraft paper. The gear wheels are murderous. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

A lesson in history

Dries Van Noten had access to the archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum. He used Japanese and Chinese images and mixed them with his well-known abstract prints. This created new prints of course. And aren't amazing prints Van Notens trademark? While Dries focussed on the Eastern history, the Italian fashion duo, Dolce & Gabbana, chose the Sistine Chapel as inspiration. The embellishments combined all together were at times too much but the prints are definitely something to think about. (Both fall/winter 2013 RTW)

No go?

H&M 39.90 EUR

Marc Jacob's pelgrim shoes (fall/winter 2013 RTW)

Christopher Kane's flat sandals (spring/summer 2012 RTW)

Backstage at Chanel (fall/winter 2013)

Pictures: Vogue Paris