Fireflies and cotton candy

By Neslihan

Do you remember those sceptical souls during Simon's first Dior show? It was too minimalistic, too repetitive, too boring... (read here) It's like Raf Simons listened to the slightly negative comments and delivered this poppy spring/summer collection as a reaction to that negativism. He worked with colourful beads, fabrics, shiny effects and enormous prints to prove his audience that he's more than straight and structural lines. He's more than simplistic Raf. He doesn't compromise though, he simply tries to find a way to combine his trademark with Dior's tradition and the new direction the couture house is taking. He matches classy with playful and romantic with -don't shoot me- simplistic as he integrates a couple of black pantsuits with floral beads. But it's always elegant and feminine.
The show consists out of two main parts. The first part is all about Dior basics: little black dresses, black and grey pantsuits, black coats... It was all beautifully tailored, you've got to give him that but I thought it was rather predictable. It's so hard to be inventive or fresh with a little black dress. I think he kind of felt obliged to honor Christian Dior's ideology, which is totally understandable but my heart started beating faster when we reached the second part of the collection: colours, prints, beads, shiny see-through fabrics that reminded me of cotton candy. The whole thing was just divine. At some point you had those amazing floral ball gowns (look five). It was as if they were all on fire. I'm in awe really, because this collection is the embodiment of one of my dearest fashion mottos: crazy, childish heartbreak hotel but the more mature version and I think that's what Raf's trying. He tries to make Dior more youthful but you've got to know that aging is easier than getting your youth back. This collection was a brave atempt in giving Dior's youth back. For sure.

Click here for the whole collection.

The non-existing perks of being a nobody

By Neslihan
I mean yes, there's a lot to talk about. The absence, the exams, New Year, the sales, my reluctant attempts in updating this blog... If I really have to be honest, I'm a little disappointed in the blogging traffic I have gained (or not) after I changed my URL. I've always said that I blogged for myself because to me it was important to have this online diary in which I could record momentary highlights in the fashion buz. It was this kind of inspirational fridge in which I stored my fashion food but as it turns out it feels like I'm only talking to this white wall and I don't get anything out of it. I've created this 'ique feeling' towards my blog because of the lack of traffic AND my missing enthusiasm AND inspiration. I feel like I have to take a new direction to keep things fresh and interesting. I have to find my will to blog again. To feel the blood rushing through my veins when I find a new blog topic. I have to sort things out, you know? I have to awaken the fashion cemetry that I've caused on this blog lately. So, let me do that first. I created this collage in order to accompany my depressing mood, well ehrm, enjoy.

1) 'Welcome to the fake world' editorial, unknown from tumblr
2) '(S)laughter', unknown from tumblr
3) 'Okay, let's satisfy the masses', a still from 'Accattone' by Pier Paolo Pasolini (1961)
4) Girl and typewriter, unknown from tumblr
5) Dita von Teese during the Haute Couture S/S 2007 Jean Paul Gaultier show
6) Yours truly in her most optimistic mood, NOT
7) 'Black is such a happy colour', a still from 'The Addams Family' (AKA my favourite quote)
8) Virgin Mary candles (GIMME, GIMME, GIMME)
9) Audrey Marnay by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Italia February 1997
10) Drinking and smoking kids, 'Princess Yvonne and Prince Alexander', 1955 by Marianne Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn
11) Editorial from Vogue Korea, January 2013
12) Frida Kahlo's death in 1954
13) Marion Cotillard for Vogue Paris, September 2010
14) 'She's morphine, the queen of my vaccine', Alt-J 'Breezeblocks' lyrics

It's a bad religion

By Neslihan
As I see my reflection in the window glass, I'm trying to figure out how I'll call the outfit I'm wearing today. 'Effortless cool'? Or 'lazy sloppiness'? I decide to go for the last option since a bad hairday is not very fashion. I don't really stand still or take minute to judge as I'm constantly on the move for something, anything. Judging is a way of living. And no, I'm not telling you all to beat yourselves up about the way you look. I judge so I can gradually evolve. The ancient Greeks would call it 'hybris', I call it 'self consciousness'. And I don't know whether it's karma or God trying to tell me something but I'm being punished for this fickle confidence. Not being pleased with the content of your closet is one of the worst things that can happen to a girl. Or that's what I thought until I saw Marc Jacobs' shoes during s/s 2013 RTW collection. Seriously, what the fuck is wrong with those socks in those sandals/flip flops? It sure is an amusing way to raise your middlefinger in the air to show Wintour you don't give a damn about rules and conformism but still... And that's not all, my dearest reader- as I think I only have one at the moment. Just when I thought shit couldn't get any worse, I'm losing and breaking my favourite earrings. I'd shed tears but that would be a tat over the top. Maybe it's time to pray again.

Et Gaultier créa la femme/ Looking back

By Neslihan
A while ago I blogged about this exhibition (not on this blog) called 'Devout/Divine: Fashion vs. Religion' in Modemuseum Hasselt. And I've still not gotten over the fact that I haven't visited this expo. *Sad face* It was the ultimate chance to see what the impact of religion is/was on fashion. Crucifixes, headscarves, mysterious traditional clothing belonging to central African tribes: it was all there to see and 'secretly' touch. Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries van Noten, you name it, they had it. It still hurts to write this down.
Since the internet is a place with a billion hidden treasures and since I'm quite anachronistic when it comes to fashion I decided to take a look at Jean Paul Gaultier's 2007 spring/summer couture show. I know as a blogger you're supposed to be innovating and you shouldn't look back. It's all about being on track and being the first who shares the news but screw that.
I can imagine the amount of stress fashion people (primarily designers) are experiencing when designing-sometimes- up to FOUR collections in a year. Bashing themselves to please Anna W. or Emanuelle A., don't get me wrong I'm not trying to denigrate the industry because I respect the artist, who works in this industry.
Doesn't it sound totally contradictional to use 'artist' and 'industry' in the same sentence? So many feelings, so many mixed feelings when I'm talking about (the) fashion(industry). It always comes down to this: it's not the materialistic value of fashion that I'm interested in but the emotional part intrigues me. And that's why I've chosen to blog about the 2007 collection of Gaultier, the one and only French enfant terrible of fashion with the biggest 'I don't give a f*ck' attitude. Sit back and enjoy monsieur Gaultier's religious delights.

Defending Raf

By Neslihan

I felt like defending Raf Simons for his first Dior collection because I've read so many negative comments on the internet. I think it's injustice towards Raf's talent and simply unrespectful towards his art. So that's why I'm focusing on a couple of those reactions in this blog post:

"Raf's collection for Dior was a copy of his last collection for Jil Sander."
This is just bullocks. Okay, this collection had that strong, refined, minimalistic Raf stamp but that's what it was supposed to be. That's why they hired the man. You've got to integrate your own vision while respecting the authenticity of the brand. Dior isn't just a brand it's a history lesson in fashion. It's a hard thing to stick to your own style but also respect what Dior originally stands for: femininity, craftmanship and class. Femininity isn't so much about cleavage, glitters or extravagance. Raf stresses on the polished side of being a woman with his sleek cuts. It basically comes down to this: when Raf left Jil Sander, he did take his vision with him. So, the next time you whine about Raf being too simplistic or minimalistic, take a second and maybe think that that's what it actually has to be.

"This Dior show wasn't couture. It looked like ready to wear!"
Can we please get over the fact that couture is only about gaudy luxury? The luxury of Raf's designs for Dior lies in Raf's impeccable sense for tailoring. Have you seen the modern version of Mister Dior's bar jacket? It was the most perfect taloring ever!  And what about the cut out dresses used as tops? I mean the embellishment was breathtaking. The voluminous dresses were another tribute to Christian Dior's style. This collection was actually something like back to basics. Back to what Dior stood for. The poppy colours and elegant pantsuits proved that. Couture isn't so much about showy, crazy extravagance but ir's about smooth fits and amazing details. Or that's Raf's motto.

"We want John Galliano back."
I'm sure we all have to get used to Raf's vision but give the man at least a chance before you start to judge. You can't compare Simons to Galliano. That is just impossible. Galliano is all about theatrical, eccentric, romantic, 20's glamour while Raf is the embodiment of less is more. He's romantic but in his own way (hence  his last Jil Sander collection). You can't expect him to be a Galliano rip off. That would be boring as well. This collection shows us that a new era has begun because Raf ends the Galliano episode and makes the industry ready for poetic minimalism. And I can't wait until the next collection!

Luckily Raf received also lots of good comments. He invited a lot of fellow designers like Alber Elbaz, Pierre Cardin and Marc jacobs but also celebs like Marion Cotillard and Sharon Stone. Even Charlene from Monaco was there. Isn't that the most amazing guest list? The Belgian and Dutch readers can read some of the reactions here. As for my other beloved readers, I've translated a couple thoughts. Scroll down to read them.

The new formality is slightly informal

By Neslihan

I've totally lost count of the fashion shows: cruise, resort, haute couture, prêt à porter and all the others inbetween. That's why I'm not even going to bother to write an extensive 'report' about all those shows, I'm only going to focus on a few of them. And today I'm focusing on Roberto Cavalli's cruise 2013 collection. It's funny actually because Roberto is kind of a tacky designer but he's gaining my love with every collection he creates. (Remember this post?)
I can't tell you enough how much in love I am with printed pants. They have to be bright, outstanding and comfortable to make me wear 'em. Those pants cheer me up in an instant and that's why it's such a joy to wear those. Mister Cavalli however has taken things to the next level. He has created pantsuits in the most divine colours and ab fab (-couldn't help myself-) prints. Instead of wearing white or black pantsuits, why don't you try a printed version for once? I promise you'll love it.
Roberto's pantsuits are inbetween formality and casualness. The cut is sleek and polished but the prints are playful and all over the place. Or you can create a balance by wearing a plain white or one-coloured shirt in the blazer or you can go nuts by combining the pants with other prints. So, the next time you're invited to a wedding or chique get together don't go for a dress but get yourself a crazy pantsuit. You'll be noticed, that's for sure.

 Your pajamas revised

 A girl has to get her daily flower boost

 Not your average black suit

 Feeling all blue

You've got the flare

No blazer involved

 That collar is absolutely amazing

Pleated pants are the next thing

(also spotted at Céline)

P.S. I'm so in love with Stella McCartney's cruise collection. You've got to see the pastel jumpers.

Pictures: vogue.fr

De Parijse chique van Emanuelle Alt

Terwijl haar Amerikaanse collega gespot wordt in rechte, klassieke en vrouwelijke outfits, gaat de Franse vogue-redactrice, Emanuelle Alt, voor weinig kleurrijke tenues. Haar stijl kan het best omschreven worden als 'Parijse chique'. Ze mixt confectiemerken met grote namen als Balmain, Prada en Ralph Lauren. Je zal haar zelden zien in een fleurig jurkje of in opvallende kleuren. Ze gaat steevast voor simpel en stijlvol. Alt draagt vaak een skinny jeans of lederen broek die ze dan combineert met een jasje. Als het aankomt op blazers of jasjes gaat ze voor onaccentuerende modellen: een oversized boyfriendblazer of een wijd jasje met een opvallende bonten kraag. Ze is een liefhebster van rocky mode-items: enkellaarsjes met studs of een opvallend rode t-shirt zijn helemaal haar ding. Ze heeft haar toppers en je zal haar zowiezo herkennen aan haar zwarte skinny. Sommigen onder jullie kunnen hierdoor ook het volgende denken: wordt het dan niet saai? Ja ok, ze blijft altijd in hetzelfde genre: 'Parijse chique' (lees 'effortless style'), maar mij vervelen doet ze alleszins niet. Ze weet hoe ze verschillende materialen met elkaar moet mixen en daarom blijft het geheel interessant. Wat ook heel typerend is aan Alt is net zoals bij Anna Wintour haar kapsel. Met haar donker, sluik en recht-uit-het-bedkapsel wordt ze vaak gekiekt. Zelf zegt ze dat ze nooit naar de kapper gaat en dat ze het hoogstens laat bijknippen tijdens fotoshoots die ze zelf regisseert. Nonchalance is haar sleutelwoord en dat valt vooral op aan haar kledingstijl. Hoe simpel toch elegant mooi kan zijn.

N.D.