Looking back/Looking forward

By Neslihan

Looking back:
I was 12 when I 'discovered' fashion magazines. It was pretty obvious, I had moved to the middle of nowhere and felt often alone. I didn't have a computer or internet back then and I had to find something to keep me busy with. My mum bought an 'economy pack' of 5 magazines and I stole the one on fashion. I remember its name vividly: Avantgarde. It sounded so promising, almost bigger than life. That moment was really magical, I turned the pages and almost felt this surreal tingle in my brain. The luxury, the drama, the creativeness: this was a way of living too. I read about brands like Chanel and Viktor & Rolf and collected everything there was to collect on their name. I had become a fashion junky. Later, I'd go to my aunt's house and watch full length runway shows on the internetz and even blog about it on social network sites. I felt as if I was part of this world. My contribution was and still is so very small but I liked my place in fashion jungle. I was the biggest fashion lover but also its biggest critic. I literally idolized Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld. And my heart also broke in a billion tiny pieces when she left Vogue Paris, which had then become my fashion manual.

This period is marked by staples of Vogue Paris issues. I'd buy it monthly and always looked forward to their amazing covers. I loved Roitfeld's sexy, luxurious Parisian style but also the more edgy and rock & roll vibes Emmanuelle Alt was sending me once she replaced Roitfeld. I would spend 25 % of my pocket money on fashion magazines, the other 75 % would go to clothes/ accessories. I couldn't care less about meeting friends and going to the movies. I'd rather be alone in my room and create fashion articles. That truly made me happy and I felt as if I was gaining knowledge. As I grew in fashion facts, I felt an amazing urge to share it with other people. I was hyper cocky and wanted to educate people. But now, as I look back on it, I realize I didn't want to educate anyone. I just desperately needed to connect with anything. I think I wanted to belong and be good at something, so I chose fashion. But somehing had changed along the way. Anywayz I had.

As I tried to keep up with the industry's pace, I realized this was not what I wanted. I didn't want to have an opinion on every fashion brand. I didn't want to blog about the ones I didn't find significant. I didn't want to spread negativity because I knew every designer put his heart and soul in his collection. I knew they worked 24/7, season after season and figured I didn't want to reflect my disappointments onto them. Taste is so personal and culturally but aslo socially determined. Who are we to criticize anything at all? That's when I started to criticize 'the industry' instead of the collections. There was heart in the clothes but there was envy and filth in the industry. Back then I loved Lagerfeld's aesthetics but hated his body-hating self. And that was not all. I hated the underrepresentation of coloured models, sexualizing children, 21st century imperialism/superiority (scroll to "It's all about refinement..." and feel your toes cringe) and lack of realism. The industry is all about unachievable beauty ideals. I figured I didn't wanna feel un-whole or mediocre just because I wasn't fit to be a girl next door. I searched for my own voice and discovered feminist bloggers like Celia, Annabeth and Laci and blogs like RookieMag. I realized I didn't have to spend a fortune on magazines to be part of this world. I could just start a blog and freely share my thoughts. That's when things began to feel comfortable again. I blogged about more personal topics like sexuality and body image. I think at a certain moment the curtain falls and all you have is yourself and then it becomes very important you can relate to something/someone. That curtain falls daily, it's when the glamour/pretending stops and you comfort yourself in joggingpants and a box of chocolates. That's what I wanted my blog to be: a safe haven for every single soul in doubt because doubt can be very creative. (This sounds so christian, omg.)

So, here I am, still blogging, still overthinking things. As fashion constantly evolves and my taste changes during the years, I'm still searching for my own voice. I'm still learning and hope to be more accurate one day. Everything has changed, even 'Avantgarde' has stopped (read: it's Dutch) but my strong wish to share is still burning fiercely. And I'm here as long as it burns.

Looking forward:
Every once in awhile I still buy magazines. Yesterday I was down that lane again and spent 14 fucking euros on 'Elle Collections A/W 2014'. I always wanted to have an 'Elle Collections'. I know you can find the same information for free on the internet but it's not the same. A magazine is there forever and it feels different because you can actually turn the pages and feel the texture of the paper. On the internet you have to collect the pictures on your own but when you buy a magazine it's already done for you. Not to mention the fabuous layout. It just reminded me of my blog. And since it rains more often now and we're saying goodbye to tropical temperatures, I can finally find peace in sharing some of my favourite items of the past autumn/winter collections.

1) PRADA:

All I can say is: I want all four of the coats. I feel like a fine coat sets a statement. Some are long, others are short. Some ar made of wool, others of leather and some others are made of fur but they all tell a story. That story can be laid back, classy, vampy or sporty. It's a mood, it's a uniform. Autumn starts with a quest for the perfect coat. One that suits your personality. I love the coats with the big pockets. They remind me of the coats I used to draw when I was a kid. Big ass pockets for big ass junk. And if I were to be a diva I'd certainly go for the long red goat hair coat. It just screams Miranda Priestly.

2) DRIES VAN NOTEN:

I love how you recognize Van Noten's trademark. You see it because of the prints, because of the male-female balance, because of the fits. A Van Noten has a (hi)story to tell. It's intellectual and quirky and -eventhough you might doubt it- it's above all timeless. The corsages and bold prints of exotic flowers are inbetween pretty and kitschie but it works so well when you look at the collection as a total. There are metallics, stripes, geometric illusion and dazzling glitter. If someone else did it, it would be tacky but Van Noten knows how to keep it wearable.

3) CHRISTOPHER KANE:

There a few designers I still follow season after season and Kane is one of them. I just feel like our aesthetics click. He's so brilliant, funny and just smart. With Kane you know a collection will be totally different than the one he did before. It feels like he's up to anything but one thing always remains: he's witty as hell. This collection sometimes feels like I'm watching a sculpture exhibition as Kane wants to mold his clothing in certain forms. It's excentric, yet it looks so comfortable for every day wear and I think that's Kane's strength.

4) CHRISTIAN DIOR:

So there was this huuuge criticism when Raf Simons took over Dior. He was too minimalist, too simple, too everyday to be the artistic director of one of the world's leading fashion brands, Dior. He had to prove himself during that first collection and so he did. Now the world has accepted he's fit for the job and looking at his last rtw-collection, I still agree. He knows how to keep the brand young and luxurious but also how to stay true to his own minimalist style. I just love the popping colours. Also in looove with the colourful cords on the waists (3rd picture), what a divine detail.

5) PAUL SMITH:

If I had the money, I'd probably wear nothing else but Paul Smith (and some occasional Van Noten) but I don't so I stay true to highstreet coppies. I love his paistly X baroque prints so much. I just feel like this was the only collection that was strong as a whole. Every piece is interchangeable and it feels as if everything fits with everything. Sir Paul Smith makes my boyish heart pound faster and stab my eyes out from sadness (cuz I'm a peasant).


PS. not sorry for the length of this blogpost since I felt like I had to make up for the lack of posting lately

Things I never got

On the Spring/Summer collections

By Neslihan

Let me sum up Dolce and Gabbana in a couple of words for you: boring you with one print which is being used for three kinds of clothing pieces. Because re-using this print for a midi dress, mini dress and midi skirt totally refreshes things. NOT. I am so damn bored of the classy, stiff, Sicilian mater familias theme. "Hey, we're Italians and we like to create the stereotype of the southern woman: which is sexy, sophisticated and a bit stiff." Upperclass boredom. And aren't you hating those chunky golden earrings already? Fuck your sophistication, Domenico and Stefano, we're all up for the next phase.

I used to worship Karl Lagerfeld until he totally started to hate on women being women (read not a size 0). He's just puking tweed in everything he does for Chanel. Okay, we get it, it was Gabrielle's signature but damn, man, can we move on now? Tweed aint no rock and roll. Tweed aint young. And tweed definitely aint an all year material. Who the hell wears tweed when it's 40°C out there? Exactly what I thought. And looking at his last collection I decided that I didn't wanna look like my grandmother's curtain.

Hey, it's Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy before he went totally hipster cool with his Disney deers and sensual orchids. But this is not Riccardo, it's that other motherfucker. The motherfucker named Marc Jacobs creating his last collection for Louis Vuitton. And this kind of breaks my heart because boy, have I enjoyed Marc's designs for the French luxury house blossoming since forever. It was a symbolic collection but not as touching as Raf's last collection for Jil Sander. Marc had created this powerful atmosphere of mourning, or that's what we, bloggers, make out of it. However I'd liked it more if Marc dearest would've gone all quirky on his last one for Vuitton but he didn't and that's a lost cause, my friend.        
    

   
Elie Saab is one of the things you can't hate. It's beautifully elegant and perfectly tailored but I always feel so out of place when I'm looking at his clothes. Also I always kind of feel like he creates the same dresses over and over again with adjusting minor details like colour, sleeves and split. It's crazy classy but so-oh boring. Perfect for bridesmaids and brides but we girls are more than only fragile. Give me some dirt to plunge my trainers in.

All fashion journalists write about Dior is the decor. Like seriously am I reading a fashion magazine or a DIY garden section in some lousy hobby magazine? Ofcourse it looks magical and touching but it's bad when the review on the decor is bigger than the review on the clothes. And I think that's a pity since I was so excited on Raf's take over at Dior's. Give the man some credit, and by the man, I mean his fashion and not on his roses, peonies et cetera.

You only hate on Kenzo because you're not part of the cool gang. So there is no legitimate excuse on hating Kenzo except one: the tiger sweater, which was literally on every blog that could afford one. But you got to be fair in your confessions: I'm totally in love with the shark theme but I'm totally gonna hate it if the sweater above appears on every blog like earlier the already mentioned tiger sweater.

bck 2 skool

By Neslihan
It's actually crazy to realize how things can alter this quickly. I'm going through some huge changes in my life right now. Firstly summer is officially O-V-E-R. This means no bare legs (but fuck it), not shaving your legs (god bless) and the end of that sweet feeling of eternity (cry). Another thing is actually about me moving into another student flat due to some problems with my previous owner. And the last change is probably the biggest one: I'M STARTING UNIVERSITY, U GUYZ! I decided to study History since I'm really into it and since I aspire to become a real life encyclopedia. I'm looking forward to start my studies and I truly want to be fully drawn to it. Some friends who already go to uni have warned me that I will regret this very, very soon but what do they know, GOSH. (Arrogance should be seen as a virtue by the way.)
But let's talk about the end of summer. I mean it is my favourite season. I just love the "let's put on a sheer fabric and some pink clogs" kind of vibe. Of course I don't wear clogs, wish I had a pair of clogs and/or guts to pull that look off. But hey, I will get there. Aren't you the cutest thing everrr? I love the sun burning in my neck, not very fond of the incessant sweating and pasta pesto kind of smell when I do so but I love to eat strawberries in the local park and feel like I'm some kind of new wave hippie. And I know how self-centered this all sounds but that really is the purpose of my blog. Sorry, you don't feel it. What does cheer me up about this horrifying change of seasons is actually the fact that I can shop for a new, cosy coat. I guess everything has a 'bright' side except for killing your cat. (I'm sorry for this sadistic joke. I totally love cats) Here are a couple unaffordable models. Cry with me please.

It's 10 PM and I'm expected at the office. I run a huge fashion magazine and this Dior beauty is a gift since Raf and I aren't only fellow citizens but also BFs. I enter the building, get into the elevator and slam my coat on my assistant's desk. Very Miranda Priestly and a crazy fantasy of mine.

I feel like fake fur is the ultimate garment to wear to an haute couture fashion show and I do attend a lot of fashion shows since I'm the editor in chief. I wear this one to Van Noten's haute couture show because what's better than wearing his furry to his show? I love this one because it has the needed elegance but it also has this urban feel to it. Perfect for a stroll through Central Parc.

I wear Marni's dégradé coat to a rendez-vous at a Parisian café. My toyboy, who's also a model, and I are having a café latté and we talk about how crazy Marc (Jacobs DU-UH) actually is. My scarlet red lipstick stains on the coffee cup and we light up a cigarette. And Edith Piaf's 'La Foule' plays as we're about to kiss. Oh, all them clichés.

My girlfriends and I have decided to eat out at a super chique restaurant. You know, the one where you can personally order you 50$-burger (shamelessly decadent, I know). It's snowing outside and my toes are actually freezing in my bare toe Chanel pumps but my wool Prada coat is all I need to keep me warm.

This is my not-so-daily-daily coat. I wear it to gallery openings and movie premieres but also when I buy a bouqet of peonies at the local bio market. It's also the one, which appeals the most to me because of its manly fit and outstanding cut. Stella McCartney has actually designed this specially for me.

You're not buying this but neither am I. I'll stick to H&M or Zara due to my financial status 
:((()))

Pictures: style.com

The concrete jungle wakes up its own soul

By Neslihan
Summer hour has been set, which ends our winter blues partly. More sun equals a better mood. Don't you just love that feeling of having a lot of time to do the stuff you really like? It feels like an unlimitied sea of possibilities. Even though spring has arrived a short time ago, we weren't getting anything but snow and harsh temperatures. I don't know what the weather forecast is giving us for the next days but I'm hoping for the best because I'm just that optimistic. Winter definitely isn't my season, nor clothing wise, nor complexion wise. I just love the impression of having a sparkling skin when the sun appears. I might be in a springy mood mentally, I can't go all the way though because this is Belgium. And you know how Belgian weather is. Or you don't, well, let me explain. I'm talking about an amazing day filled with sun, that ends abruptly because of the angry rain gods. You have to be prepared for everything, so sandals are out of the question, you don't want them to be soaking wet. That's why I've created three looks that are based on three amazing pairs of trainers, showing you they really are varsatile.

This look was inspired by Paul Smith's spring/summer campaign. I just loved the red and the soft pink together. Since you can't wear skirts or dresses without stockings I just thought why not wear splashy red suit pants to cheer ourself up? I wanted to break the polished and classy vibe by adding up New Balance trainers and cool shades.
WEARING:
Shirt: Paul Smith
Pants: Zara
Sunglasses:  sarahaghili.com
Trainers: New Balance
Watch: Michael Kors

This look is for the casual sporty girls who don't care whether their hair's looking all neat. This dress is ideal for a walk in the concrete jungle. It's an extremely simple cut but the print adds up to this dress' amazingness. I've been dying to own a pair of Air Maxes and I've found the perfect pair yesterday, might buy that one! Since you can't leave your house without a coat these days, I've chosen for a jean jacket. The leather sleeves make the totality look edgier.
WEARING
Dress: Topshop
Jacket: Rag & Bone
Trainers: Air Max Nike
Nail polish: Nars

I'm in awe with this one because isn't it amazing how well those classic and urban pieces go together? We're talking about a 50's Dior dress and Adidas trainers, you guys! Gold and burgundy are a great duo and I like how chunky it looks with the elegant dress. Oh Polyvore, I love you.
WEARING
Dress: Dior
Necklace: Ben Amun
Gloves: Haider Ackerman
Trainers: Adidas

Fireflies and cotton candy

By Neslihan

Do you remember those sceptical souls during Simon's first Dior show? It was too minimalistic, too repetitive, too boring... (read here) It's like Raf Simons listened to the slightly negative comments and delivered this poppy spring/summer collection as a reaction to that negativism. He worked with colourful beads, fabrics, shiny effects and enormous prints to prove his audience that he's more than straight and structural lines. He's more than simplistic Raf. He doesn't compromise though, he simply tries to find a way to combine his trademark with Dior's tradition and the new direction the couture house is taking. He matches classy with playful and romantic with -don't shoot me- simplistic as he integrates a couple of black pantsuits with floral beads. But it's always elegant and feminine.
The show consists out of two main parts. The first part is all about Dior basics: little black dresses, black and grey pantsuits, black coats... It was all beautifully tailored, you've got to give him that but I thought it was rather predictable. It's so hard to be inventive or fresh with a little black dress. I think he kind of felt obliged to honor Christian Dior's ideology, which is totally understandable but my heart started beating faster when we reached the second part of the collection: colours, prints, beads, shiny see-through fabrics that reminded me of cotton candy. The whole thing was just divine. At some point you had those amazing floral ball gowns (look five). It was as if they were all on fire. I'm in awe really, because this collection is the embodiment of one of my dearest fashion mottos: crazy, childish heartbreak hotel but the more mature version and I think that's what Raf's trying. He tries to make Dior more youthful but you've got to know that aging is easier than getting your youth back. This collection was a brave atempt in giving Dior's youth back. For sure.

Click here for the whole collection.

Defending Raf

By Neslihan

I felt like defending Raf Simons for his first Dior collection because I've read so many negative comments on the internet. I think it's injustice towards Raf's talent and simply unrespectful towards his art. So that's why I'm focusing on a couple of those reactions in this blog post:

"Raf's collection for Dior was a copy of his last collection for Jil Sander."
This is just bullocks. Okay, this collection had that strong, refined, minimalistic Raf stamp but that's what it was supposed to be. That's why they hired the man. You've got to integrate your own vision while respecting the authenticity of the brand. Dior isn't just a brand it's a history lesson in fashion. It's a hard thing to stick to your own style but also respect what Dior originally stands for: femininity, craftmanship and class. Femininity isn't so much about cleavage, glitters or extravagance. Raf stresses on the polished side of being a woman with his sleek cuts. It basically comes down to this: when Raf left Jil Sander, he did take his vision with him. So, the next time you whine about Raf being too simplistic or minimalistic, take a second and maybe think that that's what it actually has to be.

"This Dior show wasn't couture. It looked like ready to wear!"
Can we please get over the fact that couture is only about gaudy luxury? The luxury of Raf's designs for Dior lies in Raf's impeccable sense for tailoring. Have you seen the modern version of Mister Dior's bar jacket? It was the most perfect taloring ever!  And what about the cut out dresses used as tops? I mean the embellishment was breathtaking. The voluminous dresses were another tribute to Christian Dior's style. This collection was actually something like back to basics. Back to what Dior stood for. The poppy colours and elegant pantsuits proved that. Couture isn't so much about showy, crazy extravagance but ir's about smooth fits and amazing details. Or that's Raf's motto.

"We want John Galliano back."
I'm sure we all have to get used to Raf's vision but give the man at least a chance before you start to judge. You can't compare Simons to Galliano. That is just impossible. Galliano is all about theatrical, eccentric, romantic, 20's glamour while Raf is the embodiment of less is more. He's romantic but in his own way (hence  his last Jil Sander collection). You can't expect him to be a Galliano rip off. That would be boring as well. This collection shows us that a new era has begun because Raf ends the Galliano episode and makes the industry ready for poetic minimalism. And I can't wait until the next collection!

Luckily Raf received also lots of good comments. He invited a lot of fellow designers like Alber Elbaz, Pierre Cardin and Marc jacobs but also celebs like Marion Cotillard and Sharon Stone. Even Charlene from Monaco was there. Isn't that the most amazing guest list? The Belgian and Dutch readers can read some of the reactions here. As for my other beloved readers, I've translated a couple thoughts. Scroll down to read them.